Free Picnic Table Plans


		Free Picnic Table Plans

Here are some free woodworking plans to build your own picnic table. All of the instructions are given step by step, along with diagrams and pictures. Have fun making your own picnic table, and years of satisfaction using it.

Step 1.

Please read all the instructions and gather the materials and tools required.

Materials for eight foot long Picnic Table
Quantity What Length Notes
21+ 2x4 8' The lumber must not be split or warped. You may, or may not, wish to use pressure treated lumber.^* A few extra boards may come in handy just in case.
abt. 70 Ardox Nails 3" Use double-dipped-galvanized to resist rust.^*
abt. 60 Ardox Nails 2½" Use double-dipped-galvanized to resist rust.^*
8 Carriage Bolts 3¾" to fasten legs
8 Nuts to fit carriage bolts
8 Washers to fit carriage bolts
1 can Exterior paint or stain
^*A reason not to use pressure treated lumber for a picnic table is that you don't want the treatment chemicals near your food, or where children will play. If you do use it, note that the manufacturers of some new pressure treated wood products specify that single coat galvanized fasteners are not compatible with the new generation of pressure treated wood. They specify the use of ceramic coated fasteners, Hot-Dip Galvanized, double dipped, or Stainless Steel fasteners depending on the harshness of the environment; and that no aluminium be in direct contact with certain pressure treated wood products. So if you use pressure treated wood, please check the manufacturer's recommendations.

Tools required: Tape measure, square, pencil, saw, drill, hammer, sander, extension cord, string.

Step 2.

Set aside the 9 best looking 2x4's for the table top.
And set aside 6 strong 2x4's for the seats (that is 3 for each seat).
On the bottom of each of these 15 pieces, mark 12" from the end. This is how far the ends will overhang the supports.

Step 3.

Cut the lengths of wood with the angles shown here.
Lengths shown in the Length column are the overall total length of each piece.
Angles are shown as a distance from the end of the board for convenience. So all you do is this:

measure from the end of the 2x4 and mark the distance (shown in the angle column). and draw a diagonal from there to the corner.
measure the overall length required.
from there measure back the same angle distance and mark the diagonal.
make sure the orientation of the two diagonals is correct for the piece you are making. Most angles are marked on the wide edge of the 2x4 and cut from one narrow edge to the other (e.g. legs, seat supports, and table supports). But angles on the cleats and end braces are marked on the narrow edge of the 2x4 and they cut from one wide edge to the other. Also, most of the cut pieces are trapezoids, but the legs and end braces are parallelograms.
When you are sure, cut along the diagonals.

Quantity	What	Length	Angle	Part
4	2x4	2' 11½"	1 15/16"	Legs (parallelogram: cut leg angles from opposite edges of board)
2	2x4	2' 9½"	1"	Table supports (beneath the ends of the table)
2	2x4	5' 2½"	1"	Seat supports (across the end of the unit from one seat to the other)
1	2x4	2' 9½"	½"	Table cleat (cut cleat angles to the wide edge to lay flat under the center of the table top. It ties the 9 long 2x4's together)
2	2x4	10½"	½"	Seat cleats (cut cleat angles to the wide edge to lay flat. Seat cleats lay flat under the center of the seats to tie the 3 long 2x4's together)
2	2x4	3' ¾"	¾"	End braces - The two diagonal pieces under the table. (parallelogram: from beneath the middle of the table to the inside edge of the seat supports)

Step 4.

Optional: If you like to paint things before they are assembled, go ahead.

Step 5.

Mark on the seat supports where the 3 2x4's will cross. The outermost one will overhang the end of the seat support by ½". And there are ¼" gaps between them.
For aligning the Legs make these marks: On the top (long) edge of the 62 ½" seat supports mark 10 ½" from each end. On the top edge of the 33 ½" table supports mark 3 ¾" from each end.

Step 6.

Find an empty space along a wall to line things up. Lay one 62 ½" seat support flat on the floor parallel to the wall 12 ½" from it, with the short edge toward the wall. The top of the seat support will be 16" from the wall. Lay one 33 ½" table support flat on the floor parallel to the wall 25 ¾" from it, also with the short edge toward the wall. The top edge is 29 ¼" from the wall. Position two table legs over those two boards with the outer edge of each leg on the marks at 10 ½" and 3 ¾". Once you have the table support centered and the legs in position, measure from corner to corner to verify. From the foot to the end of the table support will be around 55". The important part is for the two diagonal measurements to be equal. Likewise the diagonals from foot to seat support ends must match each other. Also the 10 ½" of seat support extending past each leg is needed to fit the seat boards on later.

Mark the positions of the boards (on each board, draw lines where the other boards cross it). Drill holes for the carriage bolts, in the center of each of the four joints, as shown here.

The carriage bolts go through the horizontal boards first then the legs. The washer and nut go on the leg side of the joint. (That way the smooth end of the carriage bolts will be at the outer side of the finished table.) Assemble with bolts washers and nuts (fairly snug but not too tight at this time).

Lay the end unit back down flat with the washers and nuts on the top side. Recheck diagonal measurements and make a final adjustment if necessary. When the length of the diagonals match (from each foot to the opposite table support corner), tighten down the nuts and nail the joints. Put 3 or 4 nails in each joint. Assemble the other end the same way.

Step 7.

See if you can get a couple of helpers for this part to hold the end units up. Stand up the end units. The legs should be facing together. The outer sides are the sides with the table supports & leg supports.
Line up the 6 2x4's for the seats with 12" of each of one overhanging past the seat supports at the ends, and a ½" overhang for the back of the seat (the outer 2x4's ½" past the end of the seat supports). There should be ¼" gap between 2x4's. Nail them on with the 3" nails.

Step 8.

Line up the 9 top 2x4's with 12" overhang at each end. Spread them out equally about 3/8" between them. The 2 outer 2x4's should be about ½ past the ends of the table supports. Mark where they go, as the hammering will shake them around. Line up each 2x4 to its mark as you nail it down.

Step 9.

Turn the table over. A seat cleat lays flat (not on edge) under the middle of each seat. It ties the 3 long boards together in the middle. Nail the seat cleats to the center of each seat with 2½" nails. Nail the table cleat to the center of the table top with 2½" nails.

Step 10.

Nail on the end braces. They go from under the center of the table to the middle of the end units.

Step 11.

Check for any exposed nail points, and hammer them over so they will not catch or scratch anyone.

Step 12.

Optional: draw a curve at each end of the seats and table using a string, nail, and pencil as a big compass. Then cut out the curved ends like this.

Step 13.

Sand the rough edges.

Step 14.

Apply finish as desired. (if you prefinished the parts, then just do the touch-up paint now.)

Links to other sites with free picnic table plans
These web sites are not affiliated with Zirgo Corp. They have excellent free online do-it-yourself picnic table plans.	Picnic table Design 101 Picnic table plans with Angle Templates Free picnic table plans with Separate Benches

Please e-mail comments regarding these picnic table plans
to: zirgo@bconnex.net

URL for this web page: http://www.bconnex.net/~zirgo/picnic.html

Plans for a Child's Bench

Woodworking plans for a cube shelf

Free Calendar Printing Program

Complete plans for a Mini Treasure Chest

How to make a Camp Stove

Copyright © 2001-2007 Zirgo Corp. All Rights Reserved. This document may not be used for commercial gain without written permission from the publisher. While every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this web page, the publisher and author assume no responsibility for errors or omissions. Neither is any liability assumed for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.